On-board camera…..

Of a different sort:

Where I’ve been

In a place called paradise….


After a ton of car stuff, it was time for some time away. Mayu and I flew down to Miyazaki in Kyushu for nice 3 day trip. We decided not to carry boards since it would just be a pain, so we rented while there, and to lug them around we rented a nice Hiace:


And of course the hotel was as close to the beach as possible. We spent about 5-6 hours each day in the water. The waves were really easy for me to ride and there was almost nobody there so it made for a nice stress free surf. The view from the room:


As you can tell the area has a real tropical feel to it, and from time to time it really reminded me of Hawaii in certain aspects


Of course any trip of mine is complete with eating fine foods. Miyazaki is know for Chicken nanban, so I had to try that..twice.


And of course being close to the ocean means delish seafood, nice and fresh


Miyazaki is also known for it’s mangos. I though about buying a few…but at $70 each, I settled for this $15 mango parfait. Yea, the mango was amazing…


It was a really nice 3 days, and I got a ton of practice in on the longboard. I’m really looking forward to getting back out sometime soon before winter sneaks up on us..


But summer still wasn’t over….and I still had a ton of tires left to burn. More drifty next post!

Rain Surf

This past Sunday I headed again out to Ise for some surfing. The weather called for rain most of the day so I was looking forward to a smaller number of people in the water. We loaded up everything into our friend’s Hiace and headed out for the 3 hour drive at about 5am. I slept most of the way:


I was again able to borrow a wet suit, this time from Barefoot, a local surf shop in downtown Kyoto. I originally thought it was going to be a bit too large but it turned out to be just right. I also was able to borrow a nice 9’6″ board for the day.


Overall there were fewer people that a normal sunny day, but still a good number out there. The rain actually held off for most of the day but the wind stayed quite stong and at times made for a mist off the waves that stung like mad. I was able to get up quite a few times and can now turn decently, but the days larger waves took me down a few times quite hard. But really, and very enjoyable outing. I spend around 5-6 hours in the water…and I’m sore as hell today!


This past weekend

Went down to Ise to do some surfing. A few pictures:


Although it was a nice 24C outside, the water was really cold so I was able to borrow a full 5mm wetsuit and it kept me warm. I was able to stay in the water for about 3 hours in the morning and about 2 or so in the afternoon. According to the regulars the waves were crap but for me it was good takeoff practice and great wave reading practice.